my textile thoughts

Business Group is Pinning High Hopes on Textile Sector Growth

2007-07-26T00:22:00.000-07:00

July 25, 2007

Business Group is Pinning High Hopes on Textile Sector Growth

Defying skepticism over the future of the textile industry, the Indonesian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (KADIN) has identified it as being among the main engines that will help drive the economy as part of its 2030 vision and road map for industrial development.

The KADIN vision and road map, which were recently formulated to guide the development of Indonesia's private sector, says that by 2030, exports of textile products could reach a staggering US$75.33 billion and account for about 5% of the world export market.

"The textile industry has always been the biggest contributor to our non-oil and gas exports. This has been due to strong global demand for its products and its excellent reputation," economist Faisal Basri told The Jakarta Post on Tuesday, speaking as the chief researcher for KADIN's industry road map.

After conducting nine months of research in collaboration with various business associations, Faisal concluded that textiles, along with three other industries - electronics, automotive and shipping - would be the main engines behind economic growth of more than 7% per year.

"Textile exports will continue to grow. By 2010, they are expected to reach $13.88 billion, with net exports standing at $11.7 billion," Faisal said.

In line with the industry's growth, he said it was expected to generate 2.25 million new jobs by 2010 and 6.17 million by 2030. Exports have always been the focus of Indonesia's major textile companies as they offer better prices and most importantly because the domestic market is flooded with cheap and often smuggled, products from countries such as China and Vietnam. According to the Indonesian Textile Association (API) of 1.013 million tons of textile products on the domestic market in 2006, some 50% of them were illegal, 45% were local products and 5% were legitimate imports.

The textile industry has also been lagging behind in terms of production capacity and quality compared to foreign competitors as most producers here still use machinery that is more than 20 years old. In order to help the industry overcome these problems, the government has allocated Rp. 255 billion this year to subsidize interest on machinery reequipping loans.

The government has also introduced tax incentives and removed all import duties on cotton, a primary raw material used by the textile industry. Faisal said that in the next 3 years, the industry would embark on a major restructuring, which would involve a massive reequipping drive that would not only help firms boost product quality but also further diversify products.

Faisal warned, however, that 2 main problems currently affecting the sector - energy supply and labor - would have to be quickly addressed. The industry has said that state-owned electricity utility PT PLN - on which they rely for 70% of their electricity supply - had increased its charges by between 10% and 15%.

API also complains about the disparity between the cost of Indonesian workers and productivity. Indonesian workforce productivity ranks 59th in the world according to the Manpower and Transmigration Ministry while China Rank 31st. In contrast the average wage for Indonesian factory workers is 0.76 cents per hour, compared with China's 0.55 cents.

Source: The Jakarta Post
Date: July 25, 2007

my textile thoughts: SPINNING - LAY MAN VIEW

2007-06-15T23:11:00.000-07:00

www.wikipedia.com

Is Magnetic principle helps on ring traveller system???

2007-06-15T22:52:00.001-07:00

have u ever came across a new concept instead of present ring & traveller system??? ( forget about orbit / SU rings - all are in same generation.)

THE LIMITATION OF PRESENT RING & TRAVELLER SYSTEM

Due to continous contact in between rings & travellers , we are unable to increase the speed of ring frame above certain limit.
Many tried to reach 25000 rpm , but very less chance of success noticed due to more end breaks , higher worn-out of ring travellers , improper quality of the yarns etc., etc.,
the most important limitation is - FRICTION between RINGS & TRAVELLERS.

How to avoid the friction between ring & traveller.

as of now , we can't avoid the friction , but we may try to reduce the friction , by using a better coating for both ring & travellers. or different profile of rings & travellers.

Why not we can have a better design - where there is no contact area in between rings & travellers ? If we able to achieve , no need of changing ring flange , no need of changing ring travellers , no limitation of speed , no much damage to the fibre strand , better yarn quality , better efficiency by avoiding traveller chnage & ring change...so many advantagous.........

Is it possible to do the same???//

If u ask me right now , the chance is REMOTE. But quite sometime before , i came across some article - the ring traveler system designed by using a magnetic principle....

We all know - Magnets has a character that opposite sides attract each other & the same sides distract each other.

on this case , If we have two magnets - One is Ring - X SIDE of a magnet & other is Ring travellers - Same X Side of a magnet ...............so it distract each other.............

Yarn is on the travellers and traveller is drived because of yarn pull ( as usual like now...)......

On this case , ring should be a electro magnet and traveller should be a permanent magnet.....

I hope this can be a possible if we have through practical research...............If you some clarifications , please let me know .....once question is there , then only i will be looking of solutions.........

GOOD FOR US

2007-06-15T04:44:00.000-07:00

Good to know indian market is improving....

i heard now a days shortage of textile professionals in India....

how are you all today ( hope somebody is visiting....) consider - today is each day u visited.....not just posted day....

recent days fancy yarn requirement is too high...if u have plans just invest right now.....today is the best day for anything & everything....

pls note , NIFT Offered NRI & NRI sponsored quota for NRIs. - USD 6500 / annum as additional fee. ( excl. of tution fee , staying etc.,,) anybody interested , just get the application from www.niftindia.com & send it along with DD worth Rs 3000 on behalf of ( somany bla..blas.. better u check in net....

is alibaba.com / or somany other trading websites are really working or not??????i doubt....

let us wait & watch....

got something to share with me ??? just mail me....

SPINNING - LAY MAN VIEW

2007-06-15T04:41:00.000-07:00

spinning

the drawing out, twisting, and winding of fibers into a continuous thread or yarn. From antiquity until the Industrial Revolution, spinning was a household industry. The roughly carded fiber was at first held in one hand and drawn out and twisted by the other hand.

The earliest tools were the distaff, a stick on which the fiber was wrapped, and the spindle, a shorter, tapering stick notched at one end and weighted by the wharve or whorl (a disk of stone or clay). The spindle was twirled to twist the thread, which was then wound on it. With these simple tools were spun extremely fine yarns. In India the delicate threads for the famed Dacca muslin were produced by revolving needle-thin pieces of bamboo in a coconut shell.
The primitive Gurkha wheel was used to spin coarse yarns. In Europe from the 14th to the 16th cent. the distaff and spindle were gradually superseded by the spinning wheel. It consisted of a spindle set in a frame and revolved by a driving belt passing over a wheel. The great, or wool, wheel, revolving the spindle directly, then by a pulley, twisted the thread; it was then stopped and revolved in the opposite direction to back off the spun yarn, which was then wound on the spindle.
The flax, or Saxony, wheel—a more elaborate mechanism operated by a treadle—drew, twisted, and wound the yarn with a continuous motion suited to flax, wool, or cotton. In England improvements of the loom in the 18th cent., increasing the demand for yarn, stimulated inventions that revolutionized spinning. John Wyatt suggested the use of rollers to attenuate the yarn, a process patented in 1738 by his partner, Lewis Paul. James Hargreaves invented c.1765 the spinning jenny, a frame capable of spinning from 8 to 11 threads at once.
The softly twisted yarns were not suitable for use as warp threads, but in 1769, Richard Arkwright brought out his frame, which by means of successive pairs of rollers, each revolving faster than the preceding pair, attenuated the yarn and twisted and wound it on bobbins in a continuous action. Operated at first by horse or mule power, later by water power, and still later by steam, spinning rapidly became a factory enterprise. In 1779, Samuel Crompton, combining the best features of the jenny and of Arkwright's frame, invented the mule spinning frame, forerunner of the modern self-acting mule. Because of its intermittent action, the mule is used for fine or delicate yarns. For the mass production of coarser yarns, the ring frame, an elaboration of Arkwright's machine, invented by John Thorp c.1828, draws, twists, and winds the thread in one rapid, continuous operation.

Barre

2007-06-15T04:32:00.000-07:00

BARRE: METHODS TO PREVENT BARRE IN KNITTED FABRIC

one of the most common and perplexing quality issues is “barre.” The factors that can cause or contribute to barre are varied and diverse. For this reason, when a barre problem is detected, the skills of a sleuth may be required to expose the problem and eliminate its cause. Once a cause is identified, steps can be taken to minimize or eliminate the barre, and better quality fabrics can be produced. This discussion will center on knitted fabrics. DISCUSSIONS The noun “barre” is defined by AS TM1 as an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric or to the courses of circular knitted fabric. In a warp knit, barre normally runs in the length direction, following the direction of yarn flow. Barre can be caused by physical, optical, dye related differences in the yarn, geometric differences in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences. A barre streak can be one or several courses wide. A “typical” characteristic of barre is that it generally consists of stripes that repeat. Isolated or intermittent defects may or may not be barre. 1 AS TM D123-96a – Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles.

under two surface lighting conditions, ultraviolet (UV) and fluorescent light. Observations that should be made while viewing under lights are: 1. the frequency and width of the barre, 2. whether the streaks are dark or light, and 3. the total length of pattern repeat. Ultraviolet light, commonly referred to as "black light," allows the presence of mineral oils to be more easily detected, due to their radiant energy (glow). When observed under UV light, fabrics with streaks that exhibit glow suggest improper or insufficient preparation. A change in composition or content of oil/wax by the spinner or knitter without appropriate adjustments in scouring can create this problem. Fluorescent lighting simulates the mode of observation that is common to most inspection tables in mills and will highlight whether the barre is perceivable in an industry quality control setting. Atlas Streak Analyzer The function of the Atlas Streak Analyzer is to isolate barre caused by physical differences. A fabric swatch is combined with polystyrene sheet film, and the Atlas Streak Analyzer produces a plastic impression of a fabric surface by incorporating specific conditions of pressure and heat. The absence of color on the plastic impression ensures that only physical streak effects will be seen. The plastic impression is examined to determine whether the streak alignment matches the

The report continues.....if u want let me know...( be sure i send only for genuine requirements..!!)

Cotton - still unreplacable fibre which serves the mankind....u wanna know more about it???

2007-06-15T04:29:00.001-07:00

2007-06-15T04:20:00.000-07:00

2007-05-30T02:36:00.000-07:00

Is "I " is egoist??

2007-05-29T23:15:00.000-07:00

SORRY....ONE IMPORTANT NON TEXTILE SUBJECT........

as well said by our ancestors mentioning myself as "I" itself more egoist in nature......so i will call myself as ''bala" from now onwards.....

so , those who are reading this.....(possibly no one...?)......please put a eye on where ever "bala" mentioned "bala" - that should be "I" - (but please ensure that , in some cases "bala" should be "bala" only.......but fortunately -----there is no meaning for " bala " in english language ---so consider "BALA" is name & name only.) -

in Indonesian Language - "bala" means kotor ( dirty...!!!)....this "Bala" refers not "Bala". only things which are "bala" ( dirty) called as "bala" (dirty)....not humans like "bala...!".

another word - "bala...bala.." - it is an Sundanese fried food.... something like Indian Samosa.......

so , make u more clear hereafter i mention the exact meaning inside the bracket.....

"Bala(name)" likes "bala..bala..(food)" when......????

if "bala..bala(food)" is cooked with less oil......................
if "bala...bala(food)" contains is no "bala(dirty)"...............................
if "bala(name)" is in eating mood of "bala..bala(food)...".............
if "bala(name)" with some indonesian customers......even with "bala(dirty)" also , "bala...bala)(food)." can be eatable.....no other choice for "bala(name)" right???

Ok.......finally "bala(name)" proved you that.....

"bala(name)" is not egoistic
"bala(name)" is not "bala(dirty".....
"bala(name)" likes to eat "bala..bala.....(food)" sometimes......

so atlast , "bala" understood - your ears are started bleeding....sorry for it.......... this is not bala's mistake.....................one of bala's (Name) customer is bala(dirty..) ...so he asked "bala(name)" to wait in front of a male receptionist ( oh sad....!!!..but he is caring....given me coffee & water...but who cares....???).....for more than a hour.........so no work......................

In Tamil we used to say " ELLAP PUGALUM IRAIVANUKKE........" ( all the good things are reserved only for god...).....so.....the dedication goes to bala's (name) ............."bala" ( dirty) customer....

bala ponnuswamy.............

How is Indonesian textile Industry on may 2007??

2007-05-29T22:53:00.000-07:00

30.05.2007

for me / my company??? that is personal..we will talk that while we chat personally.

Ovarall , Indonesian Spinning & Knitting Industry is doing well....

Weaving & Garments ?

not doing so well...there are many reasons.....but most important reason is smuggled goods from China....Indonesia's biggest weak point is it has too many sea ports & it has world's worst corrupted government officials....

So , atleast as of now ( sekarang ) - both corruption & chinese goods are unavoidable.

but fortunately , China is not selling yarns & unfinished knitting fabrics...so Indonesia has it share in Europe , USA and traditional Japanese market....So , now spinning & Knitting doing well....few peoples say , this is as normal as last year - just before Hari Raya (RAMZAN...) the market will be on peak...but , this year lot of spinning factories are talking about expansion and many already gone too.....

Government announced loans to get more commission while factories lend the loans.........sorry sorry........to make a textile world better than existing...

Indonesia - its enormous undereducated work force needs textile industry to survive......Textile is the one and only area u can get more number of jobs......

recent days , Indian accossories are occupying Spares Market and I assume the trend will be remains same for another couple of years....as long as Indian products are consistent or............as long as Chinese products are remains inconsistent.....

Machines - Rieter came up with C60 and it is a good card - people say - i appreciate rieter after very long waiting ( say after C 1 /3 ) they have a successful card......good card & good design too...

Trutsczhler - struggling with TC 03 - still i believe they are masters in Carding technology - may be matter of time to come up with something new or better than TC03.

Still no competition for Trutzchler B/R , rieter D/f & Comber...

Chinese Simplex - i seen in some m/cs ---seems to be good at first look & customer also happy...........they said better than Toyota FL100.

ring frames - this year mostly Chinese & Lakshmi Ring Frames sold in good quantity - for toyota , Zinser - price is the big issue.

autoconers - the same trend continues

still AC 338 is untouchable - then 21 c of murata - recently Savio launched POLAR and as of now no comments.

so....if u wanna invest in Indonesian Textile Industry - this is the right time to do so.......

bala ponnuswamy

Textile Exhibitions

2007-05-27T21:55:00.000-07:00

Textile Exhibitions are used for many purposes. Few among the most important are...

Displaying innovative technologies and to attract attention of the potential buyers.

Both suppliers and customers will be eagerly waiting for exhibition for latest technologies.
It was a right platform to showcase their capabilities.

Meeting potential buyers and finalizing the orders.
Meeting traders to promote their products in respective region.
Reducing the cost of Marketing by meeting “n” number of customers at a single place from various parts of the world.

What is today’s situation????

There are number of exhibitions happening all around the world. Most of the major textile countries having a textile exhibition.
Some exhibitions like Shanghaitex, CITME organized every year and some more once in every 2 years.
As of my observation, if you leave out Compact Spinning & Vortex Spinning there were no major developments at least for a decade.
A very latest technology can be reached to most of the customers worldwide even by less than minute.
Wide range of choices available for most of the products required by a spinning mill.
A company’s website tells the whole story about the company, agents, product range.
Most of the major deals are finalized at customer’s place.

At an above stated present situation, what textile exhibitions doing for a textile manufacturing company?

No much development, so no much interest among the buyers.
No much potential visitors, so no much business dealings.
Only a chance for trading agents to source / change the principals.
Increased Marketing cost by means of frequent exhibitions & reduced concentration among individual customers.
Reduced interest of most of suppliers & customers because of very high frequency.

So as of now, I conclude, most of the exhibitions are not producing any immediate benefit to both buyers and suppliers. But exhibitions are really needed for textile industry and some selective exhibitions to be conducted in major textile centers through out the world.

Bala Ponnuswamy

28 May 2007

Latest in Spinning.....

2007-05-27T20:53:00.000-07:00

Developments In Spinning

An overview of yarn formation technologies

During the 1970s, there appeared to be a myriad of spinning systems, such as twistless spinning, self-twist spinning, fasciated yarns, composite yarns, wrap-spun yarns, pot spinning, continuously felted yarns; and the many possible variants in open-end spinning such as rotor, electrostatic, friction spinning, and vortex spinning (the original “Polish” system). At the same time, there were continued developments in ring spinning, with ventures into rotating ring and traveler systems, individual spindle drives, high draft systems, modified travelers, double roving spinning, and hybrid systems.

A look at today’s industry reveals that while some systems have established a successful but small niche — wrap spinning for fancy yarns, and friction spinning for specialty industrial markets — very few systems have survived. Indeed, this is also true of the manufacturers of these machines.

Figure 1 represents the current offerings in spinning machines and their comparative spinning speeds.

Table 1 summarizes the number of spinning positions for the major technologies, together with their share of the spun yarn market. It is evident that, when judged from the perspective of the number of installed spindles, ring spinning is still the most dominant spinning system — there are about three times more spindles than installed rotors. If judgment is based on the quantity of yarn produced, it is clear that even though there are only one-third as many positions of rotors installed, rotor spinning produces three times more yarn than ring spinning.

Ring Spinning

The technology behind ring spinning has remained largely unchanged for many years, but there have been significant refinements. Changes, which on their own offered only slight advantages, provided the following synergies when combined:
• The introduction of longer frames reduced the relative costs of automatic doffing.
• The combination of spinning frame and winding (link winders) further enhanced the adoption of automation.
• The introduction of automatic doffing meant that doffing time was reduced and thus package (and ring) size was less critical.
• The introduction of splicing on the winder meant that yarn joins became less obtrusive — again offering the potential of smaller package.
• Smaller rings meant that for a limiting traveler velocity (40 meters per second [m/s]), higher rotational speeds (and hence twisting rates) could be achieved.

These combinations meant that the potential maximum speed of ring spinning was raised from about 15,000 to 25,000 revolutions per minute.

There also have been several other proposed developments that have met with mixed success.

Drafting systems: While double apron drafting dominates, the system can be tweaked to enable higher drafts. Recent exhibitions have featured machines operating at potential drafts of 70 to 100. The use of high drafts has significant impact on the economics of the total system.

Individual spindle drives: Several manufacturers demonstrated this possibility in the 1980s. While the concept offered advantages with respect to lower energy requirements, less noise and better control of speed, it suffered higher initial costs and bigger spindle gauge.

Ring Design

Several approaches to reducing the limitations of traditional rings and travelers have been proposed.

Orbit ring: This development from Rieter was aimed at increasing heat dissipation from the traveler.

Ceramic rings (Ceratwine system): The combination of a ceramic ring and ceramic-coated traveler offered the promise of significantly better wear resistance, which translates into long traveler life. More consistent yarn quality and shorter break-in time are other claimed benefits.

Rotating rings: This idea was tried by several ring frame manufacturers in the 1970s. Other ventures into this area included systems such as Cerifil, Magnetic Spinning and Super Traveler Spinning. The problem with these types of devices is, while they appear to operate at lower spinning tensions, and thus potentially offer lower end breakage rates, they suffer the drawbacks of short duration and high-magnitude tension peaks because of the inertia of the twisting element, which is significantly higher than a traveler.

Spindle identification (Schlafhorst, Barco): The tracking of spindles from the ring frame has great potential for process quality control. This enables the identification of those spindles on the ring frame that are responsible for producing defective yarns, as assessed on the winding frame. It is believed this type of system will result in improvements not only in yarn quality, but also in efficiency, by more readily indicating faulty positions on the spinning frame.

Longer machines: Improvements in the drives used on spinning frames have enabled the number of spindles per machine to be further increased up to 1,488 (Zinser). This has a positive impact on the cost per spindle. Additionally, as indicated above, longer machines favor the use of automation, particularly link-winding.

Compact spinning: Systems that use additional drafting components and pneumatics to create yarns that are less hairy and stronger are available from several machinery makers. The many claims made for these systems are usually mutually exclusive in that one can either have a stronger yarn or spin at higher production speeds with lower twist. Moreover, there is a significant increase in the cost of these machines, and the yarn thereby produced, when compared to traditional spinning frames. While the use of compact spinning machines is claimed to have made significant inroads in Europe, the system has not been well-received in the United States. It is evident that several other machinery makers will venture into this market, such as Marzoli and Cognetex, and this added competition may result in reduced machinery costs.

Rotor Spinning

Rotor or open-end spinning is now a mature technology, and since the 1960s, it has seen a five-fold increase in twisting speeds. During the early stages of development, debates concerned such questions as:
• Were self-pumping or evacuated systems better?
• Was roller drafting feed superior to a beater opener?
• Was spin through better than feed and withdrawal from the same face of the rotor?
• Were twin disc bearings the best solution for higher speeds?

These issues were seemingly resolved, and most modern rotor machines are very similar in layout with relatively subtle differences between machines from the major manufacturers. These differences are typically associated with the aerodynamics of the transfer tube, rotor design and navel design.

While it is still possible to obtain low-tech rotor spinning frames, present state-of-the-art machines have significant integrated automation such as doffing, piecing, cleaning and process/product monitoring. Additionally, the machine can be part of a material handling system from sliver through to packaged yarn.

It is generally accepted that, while rotor yarns are different from ring-spun yarns, they tend to offer advantages in processing through weaving and knitting. This difference is a result of structural differences introduced during yarn formation. This structure — which is responsible for the lower strength of rotor yarns, but improved hairiness and yarn abrasion — is an inherent feature of the system. While it is possible to control the formation of wrapper fibers by optimizing rotor and navel designs, it is impossible to eliminate them. Unfortunately, while smaller rotors are required for higher processing speeds, this also negatively impacts wrapper fibers, and thus higher speeds often carry the penalty of a reduction in yarn quality.

Developments in rotor spinning include the use of longer machines. Additionally, there is interest in potentially using rotor technology to produce core yarns and using additional components to create effect yarns.

Fasciated Yarns

While initially there were several potential manufacturers of machines for this technology, the market has been dominated by Murata, with its jet spinning and vortex spinning systems.

Murata Jet Spinning (MJS) gained a small, but significant, share in the polyester/cotton yarn market. The advantage of the system was that it offered high-speed production of finer-count yarns and thus did not directly compete with rotor spinning. Since its commercial launch as MJS, several variants have been introduced, including Murata Twin Spin (MTS) and Roller Jet Spinning (RJS). Different jets also were offered to accommodate different yarn styles.

These offerings were to extend the use of jet spinning, with particular respect to fiber type and yarn count. Jet spinning has the major disadvantage of not being able to produce acceptable 100-percent cotton yarns. Furthermore, MJS is restricted to finer counts because yarn tenacity reduces as the yarn becomes coarser.

For optimum processing, there also are higher quality requirements on the feed sliver with extra drawing or combing operations. Despite these limitations, and the necessity to optimize finishing in order to promote an acceptable hand, jet spinning is a viable system in the United States because of high productivity — 250 meters per minute (m/min) for the MJS 802H — and adequate yarn and fabric quality. As a bonus, the core sheath structure of the yarn tends to minimize hairiness, which in turn reduces pilling propensity, often a major problem with polyester-rich blends.

Murata Vortex Spinning

Murata Vortex Spinning (MVS) is best judged as a development of jet spinning specifically created to overcome the limitations of fiber type. The major marketing feature of MVS was that it was capable of spinning uncombed cotton slivers into acceptable yarns at speeds that were significantly higher than with any other system. The yarn structure is different from jet-spun yarn with many more wrapper fibers, and in parts the vortex yarn resembles a two-fold yarn. There were concerns that there is excessive fiber loss using this spinning machine. But, even though the fiber loss may be about 8 percent, most of this is short fiber, which would not contribute to yarn quality.

MVS was introduced with a remarkable potential processing speed of 350 to 400 m/min. Successful spinning systems historically have had a significant increase in production speed within a few years of introduction. If this trend were to be true of MVS, it is possible that the industry could have a staple spinning frame capable of speeds in excess of 500 m/min.

Even though it is claimed that MVS is capable of processing 100-percent cotton, it is believed that the major use of this system is in the processing of cotton-rich blends with polyester. The machine utilizes a roller drafting system working at high drafts and high speeds. There is proof that indicates these systems may give rise to unacceptable yarn variations, which become apparent in terms of fabric defects or weak spots in the yarn. This is a problem that could be addressed by using the rotor spinning beater opener.

New developments likely for MVS include modifications to enable the production of coarser counts and a possible re-examination of the concept of spin assembly winding, where yarns from two spinning positions are combined onto one package that is subsequently two-for-one twisted. It is also evident, from a cursory review of patents, that other machinery makers have invested in significant research into technology similar to vortex spinning and perhaps there soon may be alternative machines available.

It is clear that at the present time, there is a lull in investment in new spinning machinery in the United States. This could be explained partly by a downturn in the industry, which seems to be supported by the reduction in positions shown in Table 1, and partly by the fact that the current technologies are mature.

An additional factor in this consideration is that as spinning machines become more productive, the number of machines needed to satisfy a particular market will decline. It is quite evident from the data shown in Table 2, that among all the major spinning technologies used in the United States, there has been a very substantial increase in productivity over the past 10 years. The table does not include the impact of changing from jet spinning to vortex spinning, which would show an even greater increase in productivity for this type of yarn.

Editor’s Note: William Oxenham, Ph.D., is associate dean for academic programs at North Carolina State University’s Department of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Raleigh, N.C. Oxenham received both a B.Sc. and Ph.D. from the University of Leeds, England, and is regarded as an international expert in the area of yarn manufacturing.

Factors influencing Yarn Hairiness

2007-05-27T20:46:00.000-07:00

Hairiness

The term, Hairiness in a spun yarn means, fibers which are protruding from the outer surface of the yarn. Hairiness Index in a yarn corresponds to the total length of protruding fibers within the measurement field of 1cm length of the yarn.

Major factors influencing Yarn Hairiness

There are number of factors influencing yarn hairiness from Speed Frame to Winding. I like to focus mainly on Ring Spinning Department.

Damaged Rings and Worn –out Ring Travellers.

Replace the damaged rings and match the perfect ring traveller which suits to the rings , materials , spindle speed etc.,

Prolonged usage of Ring Travellers.

Fix the optimum ring traveller life based on ring condition, spindle speed , yarn count & material.

Very light or very heavy Ring Traveller Numbers.

Choose the optimum traveller Number. The optimum traveller no. has to be assessed by Trial & Error method only.

Yarn clearance between ring and ring traveller is lesser than required.

Increase the yarn clearance by trying a high bow traveller. But please ensure that the high bow height ring traveller is not affecting your spindle speed. In general terms , low bow height ring traveller is suitable for high speed and a high bow height traveller reduces the stability of ring travellers while running.

Wire cross section of ring traveller should be used as per the material spun.

Ring Traveller manufactures are offering various wire profiles based on the material spun. In general sharper edges of a wire section reduces the yarn hairiness.

Traveller loading – i.e. Fluff accumulation on ring traveller.

More traveller loading increases the weight of ring travellers – Abnormal weight of ring travellers results in high yarn tension which leads to high hairiness.

Diameter of the full cop touches with the Ring Traveller while running.

Reduce the Cop Diameter with respect to ring diameter. Normally 3mm difference between Ring Diameter and Cop Diameter.

Spacer Size plays an important role in yarn hairiness.

Normally, technicians prefer thinner spacer to reduce the U% & Imperfections. But a thinner spacer may result in higher hairiness. Optimum Spacer can result in average quality and hairiness.

Yarn Twist

Lesser TPI reduces the control of short fibers from the core of the yarn. So, higher twist in the yarn may reduce the yarn hairiness.

Spinning Geometry

A higher lappet height from top of the cop leads to more yarn tension and it results in more yarn hairiness. Reducing the lappet height may result in lesser yarn hairiness, but please ensure that the yarn should not touch the top of the cop.
Using lesser ring dia and lesser lift reduces yarn hairiness significantly. More significance noticed when the spindle speed is constant.
Higher width of spinning triangle gives more time for fibers to get into the yarn strand and which gives lesser hairiness. Spinning Triangle varies based on winding angle and front roller offset.

Damaged suction tubes and snail wires may result in higher hairiness. Some recent study shows that, Ceramic based snail wires gives consistent Hairiness or say hairiness CV% between the spindles.

These are all the major factors which are directly influencing the yarn hairiness in ring spinning department. In addition, Roving Hank, Simplex spacer size, Cone Winding speed, Yarn Tension & Waxing method in winding also has great importance in controlling the yarn hairiness.

Bala Ponnuswamy
28.05.2007